Sunglasses

Sunglasses are one of the most brilliant things I brought with me to the Middle East. Not just because I look so attractive while wearing them, but also the protect my eyes and my honor.

Let me explain.

The first thing: my honor. Ok, so maybe it isn't so dramatic. But while I was in the America, I searched everywhere for a pair of sunglasses that were so dark that you couldn't see my eyes through them.

I think I suceeded--and they look particularly CIA-ish, cleverly disguising my face giving the impression that I am looking at you, even when I am not, or the impression that I am not looking at you while I am. Ha.

Actually, lets be honest, most of the time I just look silly, like I am a CIA agent in some comedy where I walk around whistling my own theme music. But most of the time I don't whistle out loud.

Anyway, everyone stares at me here in Jordan, as I look so much different than everyone else. I mean, really. I have two eyes (which happen to be blue) and hair (which is the really strange part, because I don't wear a hijab. And my hair happens to be red). The men don't wear hijabs either, and their hair is exposed, but somehow that is less tantalizing to the women than women's hair is to the men. More on this later.

Anyway, everyone stares at me because I am an "ignebia," or foreigner. Or maybe because I have big ears. In any case, I have noticed that I get a lot less attention when I wear sunglasses. People stare less because they can't tell if I am staring at them or not--which most of the time I am. Clever, eh?

Secondly, it is completely normal to wear your sunglasses everywhere here. Almost all of the Jordanian girls have them, especially at the university. And they sell them everywhere. The Jordanian girls really like the big sunglasses, with bling blings on the side, which I personally think look ridiculous. But they wear them everywhere, sometimes even inside.

When I am in the America, I find it rude when people don't take off their sunglasses when they talk to you--mostly it bugs me because I can't see their eyes. So when I was here for the first little while, I would take my sunglasses off when I walked into stores or was ordering food, etc.

That was a mistake.

I don't know what it is about my brilliant blue eyes, but people (and by people here, I mean men) would do a huge double take when they saw my eyes. It was startling, actually, and scared me a couple of times when they would jump backward because they were so shocked. It was like I had lasers coming out of my eyes, or something.

Anyway, now I keep my sunglasses on all of the time--riding busses, in taxis, walking into stores, etc. And so do all the Jordanian girls, so it is not so weird.

Secondly: eye protection. For those who don't know, I have been having major eye problems (but haven't found the nerve to go to a doctor here) in which air and light caused incredible pain to my bloodshot/infected eyes. (Did I mention that the sunlight is intensely burning here? Not so good for the eyes.) So for a week or so, I wore my sunglasses everywhere--in the middle of the night, in class, and even in the hotel in Petra.

All the other hotel guests stared at me as I was eating, but I am sure it was just because they were jealous, or wondering if I was part of the CIA.

So sunglasses. Definitely a necessary part of any wardrobe for the Middle East.